Saturday, November 30, 2013

Photoshop Interface Explained (Part 1)

I recall when I opened Photoshop for the first time I was dazzled by all the buttons, options and tools. It took me some time to get accustomed to the interface and when I was familiar enough with it I modified it so it would meet my specific needs. Dont worry, I will lead you through the interface so at the end of this article you will have a pretty good understanding of the Photoshop interface.

Take a see at the image under. You can see that there are 3 horizontal bars (Application Bar, Menu Bar, Options Bar) and 3 vertical bars (Tools Panel, Image Window, Docked Panels). Ok, the last 3 are not really bars, but lets call them bars for the sake of explanation. First thing to know is that you cannot modify, move or resize the 3 horizontal upper bars (except for the Application Bar which can be squeezed so it fits on the same bar with the Menu Bar, thus gaining us some precious space ) and you can move, resize and modify the 3 vertical bars (Tools Panel, Image Window, Docked Panels).
Photoshop Interface Explained 1

Application Bar

Well, because it is an application bar you can close, minimize or maximize your main application (Photoshop) and you can open other applications by clicking a button (Bridge), change a workspace, change the zoom level, change the screen mode and show extras. I personally locate most of the features of the Application Bar useless because I have some better ways to receive access to them without taking my eyes from the image I am working on and those ways are keyboard shortcuts. They are a big time saver and make navigation a breeze. Once you will learn the shortcuts you will locate it very clumsy to go back to pushing various buttons so hang on with me as I reveal them to you.
Photoshop Interface Explained 2
Ok, so the only useful buttons I ever use are (highlighted with red):

  • Close, Minimize, Maximize. That is when I am lazy and I don’t use the keyboard shortcut for Close ( Ctr+q);
  • Show more workspaces and options. This is especially useful when you resize the Application bar until it fits on the same line with the Menu Bar (I will show you this feature next);
  • Workspaces Area. Here you can see what your working space is and the other available workspaces;
  • Resize button. When you put your mouse over this button a specific drag icon appears and if you drag it to the left you will extend the Workspace Area showing more workspaces. If you drag to the right it will reduce the Workspace Area. Drag it to the maximum extent to the right and the Menu Bar will magically go up to sit on the same line with the Application Bar. Well, not really magically, but once you make enough room Photoshop will do this for you. This feature is great because it will give you some more space to view your image. You can see below how the Application and the Menu Bar on the same line. Try to do this yourself and then leave it this way.
Photoshop Interface Explained 3
  • Arrange Documents. This button is useful when you have two or more images opened and you desire to see them both in the similar window. When you click this button you are presented with a list of self explanatory icons which when clicked arrange your windows one way or another. Below the icons you will see a bunch of commands which perform some tasks.
  • Float all in Windows will remove the images from their tabbed environment (we will profit to this later in the article) and floats them in separate windows;
  • New Window makes a duplicate of the current window (all the changes you make in one window are automatically applied to the second window. If you desire to apply different changes to each window you should use Image > Duplicate or you can click Create new document from current state button from the History panel);
  • Actual Pixels matches the zoom level of the image to the actual resolution of the screen (we will learn about that in a future article);
  • Fit upon Screen modifies the zoom level so the whole image is visible upon the screen;
  • If you have at least 2 images tiled upon the screen and you are zoomed in at lets say 500% in the first image then Match Zoom will zoom the second image at the similar level. If you zoomed in in the first image and you are viewing the lower left corner then by pressing Match Location than you will be seeing the lower left corner of the second image. Match Zoom and Location modifies both the location and the zoom of the second image. When I say first image I mean the active image, or the image upon which you are working upon. The second image represents the inactive image or the out of focus image. That is you are not actively working or viewing this image. Of course these 3 commands (Match Zoom, Match Location, Match Zoom and Location) work upon more than 2 images. Just recall that the image you are working upon or viewing is the active image and the rest are inactive (or out of focus) images;

To return to the default image view just press Consolidate All.
Photoshop Interface Explained 4
Below you can see “Arrange documents” in action. In this specific case I choose the “Tile all in a grid” icon (second upper icon from left to right).
Photoshop Interface Explained 5
Ok, now for the less useful ( or less used ) buttons:
  • Screen Mode. You can use the keyboard shortcut ( F ) to cycle through the 3 screen modes. Standard Screen mode it is as its name suggests the standard, default screen mode.
“Full Screen Mode With Menu Bar” gets rid of the Windows Taskbar (I don’t know the exact behavior on a Mac but I presume it is basically the same), the tabs bar, the status bar and the scroll area.
“Full Screen Mode” gets rid of everything but the image. It usually displays a black background but you can right click and choose a custom background. If you are in “Fullscren mode” and you want to bring up the Tools panel, the Docked panels and the 3 upper bars then press Tab. If you want to bring up just the Docked panels then press Shift+Tab. Also if you go with your mouse near the left or right edge the Tools or the Docked Panels will temporarily appear and disappear when you move your mouse away.
Photoshop Interface Explained 6 
  • Zoom Level. Here you can select a zoom level. I never used this button because I do all my zooming from the keyboard. I will detail navigation in a future article but here’s the fastest way to zoom around in Photoshop: Hold Ctrl+Space than click and drag. For “zoom in” drag to the right and for “zoom out” drag to the left.
  • View Extras. Another button I never use. There are faster keyboard shortcuts for the rare occasions that I actually need extras. Or I go to the View menu (on the Menu Bar) and choose my options from there.
  • Launch Mini Bridge and Launch Bridge. These buttons do exactly what they say: one launches Bridge (Bridge is an application for managing your pictures) and the other launches the Mini Bridge Extensions. Let me be honest and tell you why I almost never use these buttons. I used Bridge in the past and I can say it is a pretty solid photo management software and it works great if you have no more than 1000 pictures. But good luck managing 50000+ pictures in Bridge! It is a slow, tedious and annoying process, with huge loading times and slow reaction times. If you have a huge picture library like me then I warmly recommend Adobe Lightroom. It has most of the features of Bridge and much more. You can do some basic editing to your photos, export your gallery to the web, batch rename-edit-tag your pictures, easily modify keywords etc. But the most important aspect for me it is that it doesn’t choke on a large library of photos like Bridge does.

Menu Bar

Photoshop Interface Explained 7

This is where you can save any open files, set options, choose panels etc. Take a look at all the menus and try to familiarize yourself with them. Don’t be afraid to experiment and make mistakes because this is the only way you will learn. The ones you should really know about are:
Photoshop Interface Explained 8
  • Help > Photoshop Help. Don’t be shy to use help when you don’t know something. Use the search bar to find your topics. If you have a poor internet connection then you will do better if you download the help file in .pdf format to have it available all the time. Here’s the link to the .pdf file (CS5). Just let it load then save it to your computer. Also beware that due to the size of the file (40 mb) some old browsers might crash so use a modern (good) browser like Firefox or Opera.

 

Options Bar

Photoshop Interface Explained 9
This bar will look different depending on which tool you have active. Here you will find options for the active tool. For example in the image above you can see the brush options because I have selected the brush tool. We will get into more detail in future articles when we will be describing each tool from the tools panel.
Ok, so far we have reviewed the 3 upper horizontal bars. You cannot move them or resize them ( except for the little trick when we squeeze onto the same line the Application and the Menu Bar) and you can only make them disappear when choosing the “Full Screen Mode”. Also you can hide the Options Bar by choosing Window > Options ( choose again to make the Options Bar show ).

On Part 2 we will look at the 3 vertical “Bars” (Tools Panel, Image Window and Docked Panels).


Thursday, November 28, 2013

Photoshop Basics: How to set up Photoshop

Hey guys, what's up. Welcome to photoshop Tutorial. This is the first post of this blog about photshop. Today I am going to tell you about basics of photoshop, how to set up photoshop.

Before you begin using Photoshop you should set it up properly. Dont worry if you dont understand what every the options mean, just follow the guidelines under for starters. With time and extensive use the meaning of all those fancy and (apparently) complex options will fall into area and you will know exactly what you desire. You have to begin somewhere, right?

General Preferences:

Lets begin by going to Edit > Preferences > General (Ctrl+K).

General:

Uncheck export clipboard and depart the rest as default.


Interface

Here you can also depart as default but you may desire to temporarily check show channels in color to look them in color and maybe better understand the way RGB channels work. But you will desire to uncheck this option eventually because it will make channel review difficult.

File Handling

I usually uncheck Ask before saving layered TIFF files because it is annoying to have the warning pop up every time stating that using layers increases file size. I also pick Never from Maximize PSD and PSB file compatibility popup menu. But if you are using your files across multiple versions of Photoshop or other Adobe Suite products you may desire to depart this to Always or Ask.

Performance

  • Memory usage
This depends on your available RAM but I usually let Photoshop use 70% of sum available memory. This is enough for my system to do multitasking and not choke if I have other apps open simultaneously.
  • History & Cache
The only thing you should change is History States. This option is very important because it determines how many history states you have available when editing a file (that is how many ctrl+Z or steps back you can go). 500 is a fairly right amount but be careful of maxing it out (1000) because it will require more RAM and it will increase your scratch file size (we will acquire to that next).
  • Scratch disks
Scratch disks are disks where your scratch files are stored. But what is a scratch file? Well, a scratch file is usually a file on your hard-disk where Photoshop stores history states (remember them from above?), cache levels and other information about your working documents. As you continue to edit your images the scratch file size increases. So you should pick as primary scratch disk a quick, large difficult-drive (other than the one the operating system is installed). A Solid State Drive would be good, but a defragmented difficult-disk with 20+ Gigabytes will be enough for most of your tasks.
  • GPU Settings
You should definitely check Enable OpenGL Drawing if your graphic card allows it. That is, if the option is grayed out you probably dont have a great enough graphic card or your drivers are missing or they are old in which case you should update your GPU drivers. This is not vital for working with Photoshop but it certain makes navigation and editing smoother and more eye-candy.

Cursors

  • Painting cursors
Go with the Full size brush tip option and check Show crosshair in Brush Tip as this increases your precision when painting.
  • Other cursors
Leave it to Standard. You can press Caps Lock to bring up the precise cursor.

Transparency & Gamut

Here you can depart the default settings.

Units & Rulers

Because I mainly use Photoshop for the Web I set Rulers to pixels. But if you are working with files for print or other medium you can change the Rulers to the other measuring units available. Be aware of the New Document Preset Resolution option. You should depart Print Resolution at 300 pixel/inch but you can change the Screen Resolution to 80 pixels/inch if you are working with images for Web display and raise it up to 250 pixels/inch if you are working with images that will have multiple future destinations ( print, web, video editing etc.).

Guides, Grid & Slices

Here you can leave the default settings.

Plug-ins

The only notable change you can make here is to check Additional Plug-Ins Folder and pick your plug-ins folder. How is this going to help you? If you use lots of plug-ins you can install them in different folders ( other than the default plugins folder ) and select only the folder with plug-ins you need that day or that week. The thing is that the fewer the plug-ins, the faster the begin-up.

Type

Here you can leave the default settings.

3D

I dont use 3D on a regular basis so I cant give you proper advice about how to set up this effectively, but on the rare occasions that I work with 3D the default setting work just good.

Color Settings

Color settings is a very important thing to set up right because your entire workflow is affected by it. These settings establish the way Photoshop treats your images so you should be cautious and set it up properly. Go to Edit > Color Settings (Ctrl+Shift+K).

The first thing you should do is click the More options button which reveals some advanced settings.
  • Working Spaces
Here you can select in what color space you will be working. I recommend you depart Gray and Spot as they are and also depart CMYK at US Web Coated SWOP v2 unless you have specifications from your printing service. The RGB is set to default at sRGB IEC61966-2.1 and it should work good if you edit images only for the web. However, if your images will have multiple future destinations ( video editing, print, etc. ) you should pick either Adobe RGB(1998) or Pro Photo RGB color space. What is a color space? Well, when you work in a color space, your image will be displayed using all the colors available in that color space. sRGB is a smaller color space than others, so your image will see less mild and poorer in color variation than it would see if you have displayed your image on Adobe RGB or Pro Photo RGB because the last two are larger color spaces and thus contain more color nuances. If you are interested in the subject you can check this Wikipedia article. Follow this general rule: If your images are for the Web only than choose sRGB. Otherwise go with AdobeRGB or Pro Photo RGB.
  • Color Management Policies
Here you set up the way Photoshop treat the profile mismatches and images with missing profiles. My advice is to depart CMYK and Gray to Preserve Embedded Profiles and RGB to Convert to Working RGB. This setting will convert an image with and existing or missing profile to your working profile ( your working profile will be the color space you selected from the dialog above this one ). Also you should check Profile Mismatches Ask when Opening and leave the other two options unchecked. This is useful when you are working in a smaller color space and the image you open has a larger color space Because the conversion will discard some color information you should be aware of it when it will happens. As a rule of thumb convert to working RGB only when your working RBG is Adobe RGB or Pro Photo RGB and the image youre converting has an sRGB or an unknown color profile.
  • Conversion Options
Leave the Engine to Adobe(ACE) but if you are working mainly with photos then I recommend that you change the Intent to Perceptual. This will hold the color relations in a photo when converting it to another color space and that is important for photography. If you are working only with charts or logos this is not something you desire for your pictures.
After youre done changing the options you should retain your settings for future use and for in-between applications color management compatibility. By saving your settings you ensure that the thesame color settings are applied throughout other Adobe apps (Bridge, Dreamweaver etc).
Those are the basic settings you should set before starting to use Photoshop. You could tweak the keyboard shortcuts and menus (Edit> Keyboard Shortcuts) but if you are a newbie to Photoshop I recommend you depart those unchanged until you are more comfortable with the program and you have developed definite workflows and habits. Try experimenting for yourself and observe how various settings affect your images but always return to the secure options which you know for positive work for you unless you know precisely that you desire something else.